How to Convert Image to Embroidery File (JPG/PNG to DST/PES)

Converting a picture (whether a JPG, PNG, or other image) into an embroidery file is a multi-step process called embroidery digitizing. This process transforms a regular image into a special file that an embroidery machine can read and stitch out on fabric. In this guide, we’ll explain how to turn a picture into an embroidery design step by step. We’ll also cover the tools (including free options), tips for best results, and why many people choose professional digitizing services for high-quality outcomes. The tone here is professional yet friendly – by the end, you’ll understand how to convert image to embroidery file and what it takes to get a beautiful embroidered result.

Understanding Embroidery Files vs. Image Files

Embroidery files are not the same as standard image files. An image like a JPEG or PNG is made of pixels or vectors (shapes and colors) that look like a picture. In contrast, an embroidery file contains a set of stitch commands – it tells the embroidery machine how to stitch the design (where to stitch, what type of stitch, thread color changes, etc.). In other words, an embroidery design file is essentially a digital stitching blueprint for the machine, not a pixel-based image.

For example, an image file might have millions of colored pixels or vector shapes, but an embroidery file will have instructions like: fill this area with satin stitches, or use a fill stitch here with X density, in a specific sequence. Because of this fundamental difference, you can’t just rename a .jpg to an embroidery format and expect it to work – the content of the file has to be completely rewritten (digitized) into stitch commands. This is why there’s no simple “Save As embroidery” in common image editors, and specialized digitizing software or services are needed.

Embroidery file formats: There are many embroidery machine file formats, and each machine typically accepts a specific type. Some common formats and their associated machine brands include PES (Brother/Baby Lock), DST (Tajima), EXP (Melco/Bernina), JEF (Janome), HUS/VP3 (Husqvarna/Viking), ART (Bernina), PEC/PCS (older Brother/Baby Lock), XXX (Singer), among others. For instance, Brother home embroidery machines read PES files, so if you have a Brother machine you would convert your image into a .pes file. A commercial Tajima machine uses .dst files, and Janome machines use .jef files. All of these formats encode the stitch data, but their exact file structure differs per brand. When you finish the digitizing process, you will save to the format your machine needs (most software allows choosing the format during export). The good news is that once you have an embroidery design (stitch file), converting between embroidery formats (say, PES to JEF) is easier using conversion tools – though it’s generally best to digitize directly to the format you need to avoid any small incompatibilities.
Here is a complete guide about Embroidery File formats

What is Embroidery Digitizing?

Embroidery digitizing is the art of converting artwork (like an image or logo) into an embroidery machine file. A human embroidery digitizer (or the digitizing software’s auto-conversion feature) will take the image and re-create it using stitches. This involves manual decisions and settings that tell the machine how to sew the design. For example, the digitizer must choose which parts of the image are filled with which stitch type (running stitch, satin stitch, fill stitch, etc.), what the stitch direction and angle should be, where to start and stop each section, how dense the stitching should be, and in what order to stitch different parts of the design. All these parameters affect how the final embroidery will look and how well it will sew out.

Because of this complexity, converting an image into an embroidery file is not a one-click task. Even though modern software may have an auto-digitizing or “auto punch” feature, it often requires cleanup and adjustment for a good result. In fact, learning to digitize well can take considerable time and practice. One source notes that for a beginner, it can take many months (even up to a year) to become truly efficient at manual digitizing, because you need to master concepts like stitch density, underlay, compensation for fabric pull, and layering of stitches. High-end digitizing software is also quite expensive, which is why many casual users prefer to hire professionals for complex designs.

The bottom line is: digitizing a photo or logo for embroidery involves skill and judgement. It’s part science (understanding how stitches and fabrics interact) and part art (making the embroidered piece look as close to the original image as possible). Don’t be discouraged – simple designs can be auto-digitized or learned with practice, but intricate images (like detailed photos) often need an experienced touch for the best results.

Steps to Convert a Picture into an Embroidery Design

Let’s walk through how to convert an image (JPG, PNG, etc.) to an embroidery file. The process can be summarized in a series of steps. Whether you use a free embroidery converter or professional software, these fundamentals apply:

1. Choose a Suitable Image: Start with the right kind of picture. Not every image will embroider well. Simple, high-contrast images with clear outlines and solid areas are the easiest to convert into stitches. For instance, logos or cartoon-style graphics with a few solid colors are ideal. Photographs or images with very many colors, gradients, or tiny details are harder to digitize because an embroidery machine cannot blend colors like a printer – it needs distinct blocks or areas for each thread color. If your image is a photo, try to imagine it with far fewer colors and simplified details. Will it still be recognizable when reduced to, say, 5-10 colors or less? If yes, great. If not, you might consider choosing a simpler graphic or be prepared for a lot of manual editing to simplify the design during digitizing.

2. Prepare the Image: Before converting, you may need to edit the image slightly for better results. This can include:

   • Resizing: Scale the image to roughly the size you want the embroidery to be. Many digitizing programs allow you to resize later, but starting close to the target size can help you judge detail and stitch density.

   • Cleaning up: Remove any background or unwanted elements. A busy background in a photo will unnecessarily complicate the embroidery. You can use a tool like Photoshop or a free online background remover to delete the background and get a transparent PNG of just the subject. This step makes a big difference – it isolates the part of the image you actually want to stitch. (See the image below for an example of an image with its background removed before digitizing.)
     Removing the background from an image can make embroidery conversion easier. Tools like remove.bg can automatically strip out the background, leaving just the main subject. This gives you a cleaner starting image to digitize, as shown above.

   • Reducing colors: If the image has many colors or shades, consider reducing the color count. Some digitizing software will do this for you (you might see an option to reduce or “posterize” colors). Fewer colors will translate to fewer thread changes and clearer areas of solid stitching. For example, a photo might be simplified into a 5-color design of highlights and shadows. Too many colors can confuse auto-digitizing algorithms and often don’t sew out well.

   • Sharpening & contrast: Increasing the contrast or simplifying the design’s shapes (even by hand, like tracing or simplifying shapes) can help. You might use an image editor to make edges more defined so the software can pick them up. Some software (like SewArt) even provides tools to merge nearby colors or clean up speckles in a bitmap.

   • Set the final size: Decide the dimensions for the embroidery. Remember that very small details won’t show up if the final size is small (for instance, trying to embroider a full family photo in a 2-inch square will not be legible). Check the design size requirements of your project or client before proceeding.

3. Import the Image into Digitizing Software: Open your embroidery digitizing program of choice and import the prepared image. Most software has an “Import” or “Open image” function. As an example, if you use Brother’s PE-Design software, you would start a new design and use the Image > Open command to load your picture. The image will appear in the background of the design window.
   If you want to get knowledge about digitizing software, then you can visit: Best Embroidery Digitizing Software

4. Choose Your Conversion Method (Auto or Manual): At this point, you have a couple of paths:

   • Auto-Digitizing (Auto Conversion): Many programs have an auto-digitize feature (sometimes called Auto Punch, Auto Digitizer, or a wizard) that attempts to convert the image to stitches for you. If you use this, the software will analyze the image and generate stitch areas automatically. For instance, in Brother PE-Design you can click the Auto Punch button, follow a short wizard (usually adjusting a few settings like number of colors to recognize), and the software will create an embroidery design from the image.
      After a few “Next” clicks, you finish the wizard and an initial embroidery pattern is created. Auto-digitizing can handle basic shapes and color areas reasonably well, especially if the image was simple. However, it often produces a rough design that might lack fine detail or have inefficient stitch paths. It’s best for simple logos or cartoons, and even then you might need to edit the result (e.g., remove some stray stitches, adjust densities).

   • Manual Digitizing: This means you (the user or a hired digitizer) manually create the embroidery design using the software’s tools. Essentially, you trace or draw on top of the image within the software: you create shapes (like outlines, fills) that correspond to parts of the image and assign stitch types to them. For example, you might draw an outline around a solid area and set it as a fill stitch with a certain angle, then draw another shape for a border and set it as a satin stitch.
     Manual digitizing is more time-consuming but gives the best control. A skilled digitizer will break the image into logical parts (objects), decide the optimal stitch order, and apply proper underlay stitches, compensation, and other settings for a clean result. In a manual workflow, you might start with the largest or most important section of the design and digitize piece by piece (for instance, in a logo with text and an icon, you might do the icon first, then the text). You continue until you’ve recreated every part of the image with stitches. This method requires knowledge, but it produces higher quality designs than raw auto-conversion.

Many people use a combination of both methods: you might auto-digitize to get a starting point and then manually edit the result. Or auto-digitize some simple parts and manually digitize the rest. Modern software allows you to adjust the auto-digitized areas by adding/removing stitches, changing directions, etc., so you can improve the initial output.

1. Set the Stitch Parameters: Whether you auto-digitize or go manual, you will have to consider various stitch parameters:

   • Stitch types: Decide which type of embroidery stitch to use for each part of the design. Common types are satin stitches (good for outlines or text and narrower shapes), fill stitches (tatami) for larger filled areas, and running stitches (a single line stitch, used for thin details or underlay). For example, a small circle or text letter might be a satin stitch, while a big filled background shape would use a fill (with a pattern).

   • Thread colors: The software usually lets you define the color for each section, typically matching the image colors. Keep in mind that DST files don’t retain color info (they just mark color change stops), while formats like PES do include color references. In any case, you’ll likely adjust thread colors on your machine later using whichever threads you have. But setting distinct colors in the file is important for the machine to know when to stop for a thread change.
     Here is a complete guide about the Major Types of Thread

   • Density and stitch length: These settings control how thickly the stitches are sewn. For instance, a fill area can be sewn more densely (more stitches per area) or more sparsely, depending on the look and the fabric. Too dense can cause thread breaks or make the fabric stiff, while too light might not cover well. Each software or auto-digitize wizard may have default values, but you might tweak them for the material you’ll sew on.

   • Underlay stitches: These are preliminary stitches that go down first and stabilize the area for a fill or satin on top. Underlay helps tack the fabric to the stabilizer and gives a better foundation for the top stitches. You often can set underlay on/off and type (like an edge run, center run, zigzag underlay, etc.) in the software. Good underlay improves quality but also adds stitches, so it’s a balance.

   • Stitch direction and angle: For fills and satin areas, the angle at which stitches run can be adjusted. Changing angles for different sections can create a more visually interesting embroidery (light hits differently) and also manage tension. Auto-digitizing might choose some default angles, but you may want to change them. For instance, lettering usually has satin stitches perpendicular to the direction of the letter stroke. Large fills often look nicer at a 45-degree angle than perfectly horizontal – plus you might use a different angle for adjacent sections to make them distinct.

   • Sequence of stitching: A crucial part of digitizing is setting the order in which parts sew. You generally want to minimize jumps and color changes, and also layer logically (e.g., if parts overlap, you sew the background part first, then the top detail over it). Auto-digitize might generate a suboptimal sequence, so manual reordering may be needed. In the software’s object list, you can often drag sections up/down to reorder. The goal is to have the design sew from one section to the next in a path that avoids unnecessary trims or long jumps.

   At first, this can sound overwhelming – and indeed, these are the details a professional digitizer handles. If you’re using a simple image and auto-digitizing, the software will set many of these parameters for you with defaults. It’s just good to be aware that these settings exist and greatly influence the final embroidery quality. As you gain experience, you can start adjusting them for better results.

2. Preview the Design: Virtually all embroidery software allows you to preview the stitches in a simulation view. Before saving the file, use this preview (often a 3D realistic view) to check how your design looks. Look for any obvious issues: gaps between sections, too much overlap, weird random stitches, or missing parts. Make sure text is legible and details came out as expected. This is also where you ensure there are proper color stops (that the machine will stop for a thread change where needed). If something looks off, you can go back and edit that part (e.g., add more underlay, change a stitch direction, etc.). Taking the time to carefully inspect now can save you from wasting time and thread on a bad stitch-out later. Some software even lets you simulate the sew-out so you can watch the order of stitches and catch mistakes.

3. Save/Export to Embroidery Machine File: Once you’re satisfied with the digital design, it’s time to convert it into the final machine file format. This is usually as simple as going to File -> Save As or Export, and choosing the appropriate format (PES, DST, JEF, etc.) from a dropdown. For example, you might select “Brother PES (.pes)” or “Tajima DST (.dst)” as the file type when saving. If your software has its own proprietary project format (for instance, Wilcom software uses .emb as a working file), be sure to export to a machine format before trying to load it on your embroidery machine. After exporting, you should have an embroidery file ready for the machine.

4. Transfer the File to Your Embroidery Machine: How you do this will depend on your machine’s capabilities. Most home embroidery machines read from a USB flash drive or memory card. So you would copy the saved embroidery file (e.g., “design.pes”) onto a USB stick, then plug it into the embroidery machine. Some newer machines can connect via Wi-Fi or direct cable and you can send designs to them. Follow your machine’s instructions – typically, you’ll navigate on the machine’s screen to find the design file you just added, then open it. The machine should display the design, showing the colors and stitch count, etc.. Pro tip: It’s a good idea to give the file a recognizable name when saving (like “EagleLogo.pes” instead of a random default name), so it’s easy to identify on the machine.

5. Test Stitch the Design: It’s highly recommended to do a test embroidery on a similar fabric before using the design on your final item. Even experienced digitizers test their designs. Load the design on the machine, hoop a piece of scrap fabric (with appropriate stabilizer), and run the embroidery. Watch for any issues: thread breaks, misalignment, gaps, excessive density causing needle punching, etc. If the test looks good, great! If not, you may need to go back to the software and adjust some parameters, then re-export. Common adjustments after testing include increasing or decreasing density, adding underlay in areas that pucker, slightly enlarging some small features, or changing the stitch order to eliminate obvious gaps. Testing ensures that when you do the real project (on that expensive jacket or final product), it will sew out perfectly. Once the design is proven, you’re ready to embroider it on your item of choice.

By following these steps, you can convert images to embroidery files (be it JPG to PES, PNG to DST, or any combination needed). It’s a learning process – start with simple designs and gradually you’ll build confidence to digitize more complex images.

Free vs. Paid Options for Image-to-Embroidery Conversion

You might be wondering, “Do I need to buy expensive software to convert images, or are there free ways to do it?” There are indeed some free or low-cost embroidery conversion tools available, but each comes with pros and cons.

• Ink/Stitch (Free): One of the most popular free options is Ink/Stitch, which is a free, open-source extension for Inkscape (a vector graphics program). Ink/Stitch is 100% free and can perform basic auto-digitizing as well as manual digitizing within Inkscape. It might require a bit of a learning curve and isn’t as polished as commercial software, but many hobbyists use it successfully. Essentially, you install Inkscape (also free) and then add the Ink/Stitch plugin. You can import an image, trace shapes, and apply embroidery parameters, then save to formats like DST, PES, etc. There are tutorials on the Ink/Stitch website to guide you. It’s a great starting point if budget is a concern.

• SewArt (Free Trial): SewArt is an inexpensive auto-digitizing software (around $75 for full version), but it offers a free trial you can use to experiment. The trial of SewArt is somewhat limited – for example, it will only let you save an embroidery file with up to 6 colors in the design. Still, 6 colors are enough for many simple designs. SewArt’s auto-digitizing is fairly user-friendly: you load an image, reduce colors using its tools, and it converts the areas to stitches. It’s a nice middle-ground if you want something simpler than Ink/Stitch to start with. After testing with the trial, if you like it, you can buy the full version to unlock unlimited color exports.

• Embrilliance / Embird (Paid, with some free features): These are popular mid-range software. Embrilliance offers a module called “Embrilliance Essentials” (for editing/lettering) and another called “StitchArtist” for digitizing (which is paid). They do have a free tier of Embrilliance that lets you do basic things like merge designs, but not full image conversion. Embird is another well-known embroidery software that is moderately priced; it has a 30-day free trial. While not free long-term, trials can be useful if you just need to do a one-time conversion in the short term.

• Wilcom’s Free Offerings: Wilcom is a top-tier commercial embroidery software (used by many professionals). They have a free tool called Wilcom TrueSizer (now also a web app) which allows you to open, resize, and convert embroidery files between formats for free. However, TrueSizer does not auto-digitize images – it’s for existing embroidery files only. So it’s useful if, say, you have a .pes file and need a .jef file (it can convert machine formats), but it won’t create a PES from a JPG. Some people use TrueSizer after digitizing to convert formats or slightly tweak designs.
  For more about top embroidery tools for embroidery digitizers, you can visit: Top Tools For Embroidery Digitizers

• Online Converters (Caution): You may find websites claiming to convert PNG or JPG to embroidery file online for free. Be cautious with these. Many are not truly automatic or have serious limitations. In fact, some so-called online converters simply take your image and return a rudimentary stitch file that is probably unusable, or they might require you to sign up/pay to download. Even worse, some sites can be scams – they use the lure of “free conversion” to get you to upload images and then hit you with ads or malware. As a rule of thumb, if it sounds too easy to be true, it probably is. One reputable online tool related to embroidery is Pixel-Stitch, but note: Pixel-Stitch converts images into cross-stitch patterns, not machine embroidery files. Cross-stitch patterns are a different style (a grid for hand embroidery), so while Pixel-Stitch is fun (you get a PDF pattern to hand-stitch or craft), it won’t produce a .pes or .dst file for an embroidery machine. There are a few services that advertise “free embroidery file conversion” but usually with strings attached (e.g., free for very small size, or a trial). Always ensure any file you download is from a trustworthy source to avoid viruses.

In summary, free methods can work if you have the time to experiment and the design isn’t too complicated. Ink/Stitch is a great completely free solution for those willing to learn it. Auto-digitizing trials like SewArt can handle basic conversions. But complex images will still require significant manual edits, which these basic tools might not handle well. If you find yourself frustrated or not getting the quality you want, it might be time to consider a professional service or more advanced software.

Professional Embroidery Digitizing Services

If reading the above steps and considerations sounds daunting, you’re not alone! Many individuals and businesses opt to use professional embroidery digitizing services to convert their images (especially logos, intricate artwork, or photos) into embroidery files. Here’s why it might make sense to go pro:

• Expert Quality: Professional digitizers do this every day. They know how to achieve a clean embroidery design with the right stitch types, density, and underlay. They can often replicate complex logos or images with a high level of detail that an auto-converter can’t. The result is a file that runs smoothly on the machine and looks great when stitched. You get precise results with proper stitch order and minimal thread trims.

• Time Savings: Instead of spending hours tinkering with software, you can send your image to a service and get back an optimized embroidery file, often within a day or even a few hours. This is especially valuable if you have a business and need to convert a customer’s logo quickly, or if you’re on a tight deadline for a project. Professional services usually have quick turnaround options.

• Cost-Effective: Surprisingly, hiring a digitizing service is not very expensive. Many services charge roughly $10-$20 for a simple logo-sized design (prices can vary with size/complexity, but they are often in this range). Considering the cost of high-end software or the value of your time, paying a professional can be worth it to get it done right. Some companies even offer discounts or free trials (for example, some offer to convert an image to embroidery file free for the first 1000 stitches as a promotional deal). It’s a competitive industry, so prices are reasonable.

• Any Format You Need: A good digitizing service will deliver the file in the exact format you request (PES, DST, JEF, etc.), tuned for your machine. They may even ask what fabric or garment type you plan to embroider on, so they can adjust settings (like underlay and density) for that material. This level of customization can make the difference between an “okay” embroidery and a perfect one.

• Support and Revisions: If the file has an issue, most services will edit and fix it for you. They want a satisfied customer, so they’ll typically do minor tweaks if needed after you test the design. You also have someone to ask questions if you’re unsure how to proceed. Contrast this with using a free tool on your own, where you’re stuck figuring out problems alone.

Given all these benefits, using a professional service is often the easiest way to get from image to embroidery file. This is why many small business owners, Etsy shop embroiderers, and even large companies rely on outsourced digitizing. For example, converting a company logo to an embroidery file for uniforms is a common task – instead of learning digitizing from scratch, companies simply pay a digitizer and get a high-quality .dst or .pes file back.

We provide embroidery digitizing services, so if you feel overwhelmed or just want to ensure the best outcome, we’re here to help. Our team can take your JPG, PNG, or any image and expertly convert it into a stitch-ready embroidery file for your specific machine. We handle all the technical details (underlay, stitch types, density settings, etc.) so you don’t have to worry. The goal is to deliver a file that you can simply load into your machine and start stitching with confidence that it will turn out great.

(Feel free to reach out or get a quote – we often have quick turnaround times and can advise you on any questions about the process.)

Tips for Better Results When Digitizing Images

Whether you decide to try DIY digitizing or use a service, keep these tips in mind to get the best embroidery results from your images:

• Start with a Good Image: The clarity of the embroidery starts with the input image. Use high-resolution images if possible, so that edges are clear when you zoom in. Avoid tiny, low-res web thumbnails; they’ll produce jagged or unclear embroidery. Also, simple designs work better – if necessary, simplify the artwork (you might even have a graphic designer redraw a complex photo as a simplified illustration). Remember, you can’t usually capture every detail of a photo in thread, so focus on the main elements of the image.

• Consider the Size: Think about how large (or small) the final embroidery will be. Very small text or details may not be feasible to stitch – a general rule is to avoid letters smaller than about 3mm height in embroidery, and thin lines may disappear or not sew well. You might need to remove or thicken very fine details that won’t translate to thread. Set realistic expectations: an embroidered design has a certain charm and texture, but it won’t be as crisp as a printed image, especially at small sizes.

• Choose Colors Wisely: Limiting the number of thread colors can make the process easier and the design cleaner. Too many colors means many stops and trims. If you’re designing an image from scratch for embroidery, try to use flat colors (not gradients) and not more than, say, 5-7 colors for a start. You can always add more, but each color adds complexity. Also, consider the contrast of thread colors against your fabric. For example, a yellow design on a white shirt might need a thicker outline to show up. Many embroidery software programs have color suggestion tools or let you pick thread shades that match your image’s colors, which can be helpful.

• Understand Your Fabric: The fabric or item you will embroider on matters. Thick canvas behaves differently than a stretchy t-shirt or a cap. If you know the fabric, you can adjust stitch density and underlay accordingly (looser weave or stretchy fabric typically needs more underlay and maybe slightly heavier density to compensate for pull-in, plus use of stabilizer). If you use a professional service, tell them the fabric type. If you do it yourself, you might research basic guidelines: for example, on caps you often center-out and bottom-up when sewing, and on pique polos you might use mesh stabilizer and tighter underlay to prevent puckering. These considerations ensure the digitized file is optimized for the final product.

• Run a Simulation or Sample: As mentioned, always test the design before mass producing or final application. If your software has a simulator, use it. Then do a sew-out on a similar material. This step can save you from disasters (like a design that’s too dense and bunches up, or a misaligned section). It’s easier to adjust and fix the digital file than to deal with dozens of ruined garments. Professional embroiderers will often tweak a design after the first test sew-out to get it perfect.

• Don’t Hesitate to Seek Help: Embroidery digitizing has a learning curve. If you’re a hobbyist, enjoy the learning process but know that it’s okay to get help on challenging designs. There are many online communities (forums, subreddits like r/MachineEmbroidery) where people share tips. And of course, using a service for especially important or complex pieces is a smart choice to ensure quality. As one expert FAQ put it: manual digitizing versus auto-digitizing often comes down to quality – auto can save time but usually lacks the finesse of manual work. If you aim for a professional-looking result and you’re not there yet with your skills, a professional digitizer can bridge that gap (and you can learn from examining the files they produce).

• Maintain Your Machine: This is more about the embroidery outcome, but it’s worth noting: even a perfectly digitized file can sew poorly on a poorly maintained machine. Make sure your machine is cleaned, oiled as per manufacturer, using a good needle, and you have the right stabilizer and hooping technique for the project. Thread breaks or registration issues (shifts in the design) might sometimes be blamed on the file when it’s actually a hooping issue or a machine issue. So, control what you can – good file, good prep, good machine setup, and you’ll have the best chance of success.
  Here is a complete guide to cleaning your embroidery machine

By following these tips and understanding the process, you can confidently convert images for embroidery and achieve beautiful results. Embroidery is a wonderful way to bring a digital image to life in thread, and each successful project is very satisfying.

Conclusion

Converting an image to an embroidery file is a mix of technical skill and creative decision-making. We covered how you can go from a JPG or PNG image to a stitch-ready file like PES or DST, either by using embroidery software yourself or by leveraging professional services. The key points to remember are: an embroidery file is not a regular image – it must be digitized with stitches, colors, and directions. There are tools and software (even some free ones) to help if you want to do it on your own, especially for simple images. If you’re looking to convert a logo to an embroidery file or have a picture you want embroidered and you’re not sure how to do it, professional digitizing services (like the one we offer) are ready to assist with affordable, high-quality conversions.

Ultimately, whether you digitize it yourself or have an expert do it, the goal is the same: a beautiful embroidery design that matches your original image as closely as possible. We hope this guide has demystified the process of image to embroidery file conversion and given you a clear path forward. Now you’re equipped with knowledge to turn your favorite pictures, logos, or drawings into embroidered art on fabric. Happy embroidering!